Away from the tourist hoard , Maui ’s east side — Hana and Kipahulu — is an unspoiled tropical Eden full of cloak-and-dagger beaches , consecrated waterfalls and a hobo camp so fertile it provides all the solid food you ’ll need . Here ’s how you could enjoy it like the locals .
The girlfriend ( pictured ) and I have been think of to go to Hawaii for a while . One of our best friend lived in Hana for six years and basically insisted we had to go there . Honestly , I ’d never see of it , but he assure we could camp on secret beach , plunge into the ocean from seaside cliffs , eat fruit we pick off trees and essentially just have our own tropic paradise all to ourselves . That was all straight , but the hoi polloi we met there were great too .
nigh no substantial travel advice exists for Hana and the surrounding area , so here ’s my safe effort at order that together for you . Hopefully you ’ll be able to practice the information here to design your own trip and the images and story will instigate you to do just that . For reason you ’ll read about below , some information here has to remain a bit wispy . Do n’t worry about that , just take a leap of faith , visit and we promise you ’ll have an amazing clip . The unspoilt part ? Once you ’re on the island , Hana is insanely cheap . Or even free if you want to source your own chow .
This handwriting - annotated function was our guide for the week .
Why Go ? need to see what Hawaii was like before all the trashy strip malls and mega - buck resorts ? Want to interact with Hawaiians who are n’t paid to be nice to you ? Want to spend a few days living in a tropic jungle paradise ? desire to go where few Haoles have go before ? Want to avoid shower for an integral week ? I did . snorkel diving counts as a tub , right ?
Hana ’s about the last station you ’ll witness the “ real ” Hawaii . A place that ply to aboriginal , not tourist and which does n’t molly coddle your visits . You could easy fall , bankrupt your neck or get take up out to ocean in a rip stream during a sojourn here and no one would ever bonk about it . A petty danger spices up a tropic lam , but hey , there ’s no snakes , so that ’s something .
Danger , you say ? Well get to the beach pictured here involved using a rope to climb down a 100 - foot cliff and the falls you ’ll see below meant hike through a dull , muddy , slippery hobo camp on a trail that ’s washed away above deadly ravines full of sharpen bamboo spikes , then fording your way up whitewater for a mile or so . There ’s no tour guides , no single-valued function , no mobile phone reception and no one coming along after you for solar day , weeks or maybe even month .
Day One : Lara and I land at Kahului at 1:20pm , but it was n’t until about 2:30 that we ’d collected our baggage and hopped into our rental Camaro . That was our first misunderstanding . With a $ 400 credit to incinerate with Budget , we figured we might as well get a nice car , so take the Mustang selection and did n’t see the fine print about it being an “ tantamount . ” Damnit .
The next stop was the WalMart by the airpot for bivouacking supplies like bottled water , chairwoman and a fry genus Pan — stuff we could n’t bring on the plane . ThenMana Foodsin Paia , the last thing estimate a grocery stock . occupy by that health nutrient store ’s lack of beer , I texted our champion Casey to ensure there ’d be someplace to buy a six - pack or two once we reached Hana . It was 3:30pm , so he suggested we stay with one of his buddies in town , before making the 50 - mile driving force in the morning . Foolishly , I told him I want to wake up on a beach and hit the road .
That road being the Hana Highway , oh man . “ Highway ” is a full misnomer , you ’re favourable to get two lane in each focussing , each only just as wide as the Camaro ’s swollen flanks . amphetamine limits occasionally turn over 35 mph , but our average speed on the drive was 12.4 mph . It ’s like driving through a light-green burrow , one that ’s start two - way traffic , but is only blanket enough for one car , that ’s one unsighted , 5 mph turning point after another and full of goosy tourists on the untimely side of the route and wild local anesthetic essay to run you off it .
By the clock time we get in Hana , the Dominicus was put and all we had to go off of was our dyslexic supporter ’s inaccurate direction to a unavowed beach where we wanted to camp . After driving seven nautical mile too far ( at 12 mph ) , turning around , explore the haywire field and being chased by an angry moo-cow , we finally found the veracious place to green , but the beach required rise down a rope to get at it . belike too much for us turn over our see-through exhaustion and luxury camping load - out .
We figured we ’d essay for the touristy Waianapanapa State Park in townspeople , just for a night ’s rest , but were run off by a huge family of Hawaiians who ’d take up the intact matter . We ’d totally leave it was Labor Day weekend .
An hour later , we reached Kipahulu Campground in Haleakala National Park ( internal parks having uniform convention and conveniences , no matter what land you ’re in , as well as friendly rangers ) and nabbed the very last camping ground available , immediately adjacent to the toilet construction . We polished off a six - ingroup , were bit by many bugs , then passed out . Man , was this trip off to a bad first .
daytime Two : Casey had yield us the name of a acquaintance and the location of her Banana Stand in Hana town . We headed flat there in the morning and were greet with a large , earnest hug when we arrive . Hana depart to sense an awful lot best straightaway . Kari became our imagination for local advice for the week , a role I think she plays for a caboodle of people who call in . She also gave us a loaf of bread of Banana Bread and some Passion Fruit Jam as a welcome present . That ’d come in handy the next nighttime .
We explored the townsfolk ’s bay for a minute , walk out onto the rocks on its south side and climbed in the H2O there for some excellent snorkeling . plain the fish had only just started to return come a hurricane that brush through the island three hebdomad antecedently . The coral and its fish bet pretty healthy and abundant to us , the water was crystal cleared and the bay kept the Wave off .
After lunch atPranee ’s Thai Foodjust uphill from the bay ( local - trip up Ahi curry ) , we headed back to the secret beach and started ferry our camping cogwheel down to the beach , about a half mile from the road . The climb down the usurious cliff front onto the black sand beach is incredibly unelaborated , relying on a frayed rope tied to a root to make it navigable at all . Fortunately we ’d packed a tent with inflatable , rather than fixed pole , so I was just able-bodied to thrust that over the cliff ’s edge and not have to assay to carry it down on my back . Those inflatable perch meant it survived unharmed .
Lara ’s six - feet grandiloquent with a 36 - column inch inseam , and curse that her center of gravity is plainly too mellow to manage steep descents . So she sat the 2d trip out as I went back to the machine for more supplies . While rooting around in the Camaro ’s ridiculously tiny trunk , two local kids pulled up behind me in a tone arm . They had dirt bikes in the back and it turned out they knew my honest-to-goodness web log , Hell For Leather , so were happy to give me a handful of sess when I ask if I could buy some . Maui ’s is n’t extremely strong , but it is insanely saucy . I was go so farsighted talking bike that Lara was convinced I ’d fallen down the cliff and discover my neck , but chill out down when I hand her a palm - sized bud .
We pitched the collapsible shelter , got a fire go , then Lara made us some hamburgers using ground gripe from Hana Farms and a pineapple we ’d beak up at one of the many roadside fruit resist along the way there .
I have the chance to knock a couple coconuts out of a tree diagram . forecast out how to open up them with a5.5 - in knife , when what I really needed was a machete ( corrupt one at WalMart by the aerodrome ) , was a challenge , but we eventually both got a few mouthful of refreshed coconut water and eat slices of Cocos nucifera nub right off that tongue . As the sun set , we keep an eye on a local fisher abseil down the cliff across the bay , hacking away kudzu with a matchet as he descended . He tell us the next day that he was fish for lobster , but did n’t enamor one . A tiny trivial man probably 75 + years former , I think he was a little abashed to talk to the daughter he ’d watched frolic au naturel the dark before .
Ulu successfully captured after a farseeing and arduous hunt .
Day Three : Awkward tune mattress sex was followed by a bare swim in our private bay . Pretty special , but I never really did stimulate the feeling that a turtle or similar ocean creature might prick off Wesley Jr , so wore shorts from then on out . Sometimes psychological protective covering is all you need .
We were receive a coffee at the pastry dough endure next to the general store when we got talking to its owner about Ulu . I ’d read about breadfruit in many of the sea adventure stories I ’d read as a child and had always been curious to try it , so he suggested I climb up into his tree diagram , pluck one , and told us we could roast it over coal on the fire that night .
It drizzled on and off all day , so that Nox was the first time since I joined Cub Scouts as a nipper that I was n’t able to get a campfire going . fault my overconfidence precede to unpreparedness , I ’d brought no fire starter , just the ferro rod and Mg curtail to my knife cocktail dress . Learn from my mistake and never underestimate how backbreaking a flack can be to start in even moderate conditions . I was at least able to get enough wood to smoulder that we had a decent bed of coal to roast the Ulu on . Breadfruit is starchier than a Irish potato , but cooked until black all - round on coals , its meat is nice and sore and scrumptious with match with linden tree juice and sriracha . Banana bread and passion yield press for desert . We were gone by 7:45 .
Day Four : Kari had generously volunteer us a jungle cabin on Hana Farms for a few dark , so we decided to work off that debt by expend a day working there . Lara and I draw in vines out of papaya trees , made potting soil out of compost and planted beds of Sun Hemp , Tomatoes and Cucumbers while learning all about land in Maui ’s jungle .
apart from sustain the jungle ( and Mongeese ) at bay , it seems like the big challenge to farming in Hana is in get enough N into the ground . The Hawaiian Islands are geologically “ young , ” so do n’t have the millenary of plant matter separate down in the soil that is taken for concede elsewhere . To counter that , bat guano is unify into the grime and a measured program of N - enriching planting is carry out , in gain to the usual crop rotation to enrich the soil . A thick matt of peanut grass covers the jolty clearings in the hobo camp that make up Hana Farms , and must be clear before beginning any other labor . That , fighting the vine , the “ War On Mongeese , ” as it ’s posted on the chores circuit card , and clearing all the fallen vegetation are Brobdingnagian job that need to be tackled before any growing can happen , but when that does happen , the crops maturate extremely fast . Hana Farms work bananas , papayas , yellow cattley guava and all sort of mundane crops like carrot that it uses to eat its possessor and staff or to deal through the Banana Stand .
Sound like a good life to you ? It is and you’re able to live it too . ThroughWorld Wide Opportunities On Organic Farms , Hana Farms recruit volunteer who get a place to be and all the food they can eat in return for 30 hour of labor a week . That is a sweet deal if I ’ve ever hear one and is the perfect way to spend some significant time in paradise if you ’re youthful and have an teemingness of spare time , but not much cash .
The Hana Farms “ garden ” is a footling hard to distinguish from the jungle . That ’s Alan ’s cabin , he make the pizza . Not a unsound life , right ?
Days Five and Six : One of Lara ’s goal for the trip-up was to swim with ocean turtles . They mostly go on the island ’s west side , so we drove around the Maui ’s southern extremity , along a dirt route that ’s off - limits to most rental cars . The Maui High Country is beautiful and it ’s here that you ’ll receive the best dirt bike taunt on the island , from track leading away fromBully ’s Burgers , up towards the Haleakala volcanic crater . From there , you may cod through much of the island ’s eastern side , achieving expansive persuasion of the hobo camp and rugged coastline . I ’ll be doing that on my next visit .
We found those sea turtle not 15 minutes after get in at Little Beach in Wailea . That ’s a nude beach , but do n’t get your hopes up fellas , floppy penises outnumber dope five - to - one , even give that most of the latter come in yoke .
The best snorkeling at niggling beach is to the right , as you enter the water . Swim around the point and you ’ll not only find turtleneck , but underwater cliffs full of caves harboring intact wall of eels , a huge copiousness of reef fish and even Eagle Rays , who will approach and swim with you if you remain calm . We were evidence about all this by a cheery middle - aged couple as they stand in front of us long horse au naturel . disconsolate , but I ’m just not used to that enough to wear down it does n’t make me titter .
The crappy submersed photographic camera we bribe was a major bankruptcy . Take a nice one or clothe in a quality rainproof case for your DSLR or mirrorless photographic camera if you want nice photos . We ’ll be doing that next go around .
An eventide storm send off us fleeing for shelter , which we find at theSunseeker ’s LGBT resortjust up the road . There , we drank Pina Coladas and watched the sunlight do in a clothing optional ( but not indicate ) setting that was both affordable and surprisingly nice . The gays are a hospitable people .
Friday night is Pizza Night atHana Farms . That seems to be the main social event in town and they serve some seriously excellent stiff - oven pizza , whole made out of ingredients from local farms . It ’s BYOB , so I brought a few box of beer to share and left with both new friends and invitation to join topical anesthetic in pig and cervid hunt club during my next visit .
The vast majority of locals , be the Hawaiian , crusty hippies or just people fleeing real life-time are very , very squeamish hoi polloi . If you in reality take the prison term to get to know them and are n’t an asshole tourist that is . I creep as rich people in Hawaiian shirts ask the locals what they did to earn money . Let ’s just say people who live here tend to have unlike precedency .
Along with dolphins and whales , turtles are one of those sea puppet you could look in the eye and feel like you ’re making some kind of connexion with . They ’re favorable , curious animals .
Day Seven : We also left pizza night with directions to Hana V , a consecrated falls that ’s both a secret and off - demarcation to tourists through de facto agreement . It ’s the largest waterfall you’re able to reach on human foot in Maui and a pretty awing spectacle . The diary keeper in me would love to give you precise commission to get it , but spend a few Clarence Day in Hana and you ’ll understand why the worldwide “ tourer ” conception is frowned upon . Do n’t take that as a foretoken that you are n’t welcome ; if you ’re cool and have the right-hand attitude and respect the local culture and environment , you ’ll be welcome with open blazon . But , mass like you and I represent possibly 1 percent of the mainlanders that amount through Hana , the vast majority of whom are fat , bald-headed , annoying and get into sandals with white wind cone .
Those guys would n’t make it to Hana V anyways . After getting screamed at by a Hawaiian ( we knew he was bluffing when he threatened to call the police , as if those exist on this side of the island ) and getting insensate - shouldered by too cool for shoal trustafarians , we eventually figure out where the trail head was and embarked on a tramp that would go out my lady friend wild and injured . snake pit , even if I drew you a single-valued function and gave you the GPS coordinates , most readers would grow around midway into the hike . The first half is so pissed between the Tree that it ’s claustrophobic , accept you along the top of a seaboard drop-off you ca n’t see until you get hold of the top of a dingy declivity that switchbacks its way a few hundred feet down to the riverbed . The locals patently show up from time to time and chop away the bamboo that get there with machetes , go forth domain of deadly spikes along the hillside . Do not slip and fall here .
That dumps you out where the river meets the sea and you then have to wade your way up the river , hauling yourself up its rapids , for about a mile to reach the falls . The end of the summer , the river was clean low last week , but I can only imagine how wild it must get during the rainy season . Use some caveat and judgement should you ever regain yourself along this way of life yourself . break away an ankle and you ’re never experience out , ever .
The reward is pretty significant . Hana V tower above the end of the canon , plummeting a mates hundred feet into a watch glass open puddle that ’s dusty , but otherwise perfect for swim . Very few place this beautiful go for the most part unvisited anywhere in the humanity , especially here in tourer mecca . If you ’re chatter and someone draws you a mathematical function , it ’s definitely deserving the try .
We were relieved to notice the car unmolested when we emerged from the jungle a few hours later and head for an sea swimming at Red Sand Beach to soothe all our cuts , scrapes and skin rash . Lara did n’t speak to me for at least three hr afterwards .
regard this stake on Instagram
Day Eight : With a 2:50pm flight , we woke up early and direct to Hamoa beach , one of the prettiest beach in Hana . There before 8 am , we had it to ourselves for a few hours before it was time to wash off , put real dress on , chitchat the Banana Stand for gift and head home .
pass on this place was done with big hearts . Its natural beauty , dull rate of life and the connection between its people and the nature around them is seriously special . We design on visit again before long and hopefully , one day , even buy a little property here .
What You ’ll Need To add : Not much . A swimsuit , a t - shirt , a pair of place you may hike in and some flip flops got me through most of the calendar week .
In terms of camping gear , bear in mind that it rains a little bit every day , even during the summer . You collapsible shelter should offer more than just the spare lower limit shelter want for sleeping . OurKelty Airlift 4came complete with just the proper amount of space inside for a self - inflate queen - sizeInsta - a - Bedand a large hall under which we could sit well during rainwater storms .
We carry that collapsible shelter as its own checked item of luggage ( it come in with a carry - case ) , another large suitcase with spears , knives , first aid kit and universal camping gear , then two haversack for carry - on with our apparel .
corrupt a really unspoiled subaqueous television camera or waterproofed lawsuit for your existing camera . Maui is absolutely sensational under the waves and you ’ll want to be capable to call up it with something a little better than just a GoPro or disposable television camera .
It ’s a good idea to impart your own snorkel fins , tube and cloak too . you may rip that equipment for around $ 1.99 a day in the touristed part of the island , but pack your own , timber gear will make the experience much better .
If you plan on camping , I ’d also take the matter of fire startle seriously . Make a gallon bag of Vaseline - soaked cotton balls before you go and pack igniter , a ferro rod , matches and anything else you’re able to think of that might serve . Everything in Hana is stiff all the sentence , either from the extreme humidity or the rain .
you’re able to easy bribe fishing spears , general bivouacking equipment , sun tan lotion , food and booze on the island ; mob the material you do n’t just want to plunk up at WalMart then give away at the goal of your stumble .
you could just about see our campsite and collapsible shelter hidden behind that palm tree on the left . There was no one around , so a little discretion meant we were able-bodied to leave behind our clobber there all day while we research elsewhere . Leave any campsite cleaner than when you found it please , you wo n’t see any bedding in or around Hana , let ’s keep it that path .
How Do You Get There ? Shop around , move around off - season ( which is right now ! ) and you could flee into Kahului astonishingly cheaply .
From there , you ’ll need to let a railroad car . The practiced advice I can give you in this intact article is to not make the same misunderstanding we did and go through a regular rental company . A bright cerise Camaro convertible is A ) the most common car on the island and B ) a total piece of shit that ’s majorly out of its profoundness on Maui ’s twisty roads . Any normal rental railway car — Ford Fiesta , Jeep Wrangler , Ford Fusion — is going to stand out in Hana , a place where money and the thing it buy are only really possessed by tourists . We felt like serious assholes turning up all calendar week in that Camaro .
Instead , practice the highly recommendedMaui Cruisers Car Rental , which will still pick you up and strike down you off at the airport , but will both save you money and help you fit in with a pocket-size , used automobile . Bonus point if you rent a bountiful vanguard and have them take out the seats so you’re able to sleep deep down , they ’ll do that .
I ’ll say this one more time : renting a marque raw car will make you look like a total prick all week . Renting an older railcar will help you fit in . You require to fit in if you need people to invite you along to the skillful stuff and nonsense .
Do yourself a favor and rentan AirBnB attribute in Hanafor your first two nights . Even if you project on encampment for the rest of your sojourn , having a station with an reference and a innkeeper you may get hold in the nighttime is just a really good musical theme . That host should also be your shortcut into the local community of interests , which is how you get access to the beach and falls .
Not a bad view from the collapsible shelter . That ’s me trying and failing to jump a fire .
What Should You Do While You ’re There ? examine and project your trip so that one of your first night in Hana will be Friday Nox . From 4 - 8pm , that ’s Pizza Night at the Hana Farms Banana Stand and your best chance to make friend . Show up with a few additional beers , deal them , and you ’ll see just how favorable everyone can be .
you’re able to find directions toRed Sand Beach(best earlier in the day for the Dominicus ) on Google Maps and Hana Bay is right in the heart of town , but most of the balance of the good poppycock in unlisted or “ hush-hush ” and will require a local either drive you or drawing you a map . These spoken direction are intended to keep the stunning mantrap of this place unspoiled ; do n’t look at the want of data as a challenge , look at is an chance to confab places most other people will never see . Make friends , contribute to the local community , be a cool person and Hana will open up to you .
Wednesday is Farm Day at Hana Farms , when they promote visitors to derive avail out . Enquire beforehand of time at the Banana Stand and see if you’re able to donate a day of your vacation to farm labor , then pass that day working as heavily as you’re able to . Not only will you get to hear a net ton about the local surroundings , but you ’ll meet some very smashing people who will be your best resourcefulness for access to local risky venture .
launch the trip by ear , stick with the opportunities that arise , be tolerant and curious to and about the hoi polloi you contact and you ’ll have a very particular experience in a very extra position . You get out of life what you put into it .
Guavas , pawpaw , lilikoi , coconuts , avocados and ulu turn everywhere , amongst other things . find fault ’em if you see ’em ( and it ’s not in someone ’s yard ) or just do it the easy mode and corrupt them from the plethora of roadside fruit tolerate that work on the pureness system . Believe it or not , but many locals pay their mortgages this room .
Make indisputable you halt atCoconut Glen’sfor the best ice pick of your life . Plus , his pagan married woman has some seriously bully anti - Christian propaganda to dispense involving the lilikoi , the pope and the downfall of Hawaiian cultivation .
What We ’d Do Differently : I really wanted to drink down something for food for thought on this trip-up , but did n’t get the chance to . Spearfishing was just a non - starting motor along the coast ; we really require to take a kayak or fishing gravy holder out to the Reef to make that happen . I should have packed a rod and reel instead , and that ’s what you should take if you want to eat some of the copious local Pisces the Fishes . I watched kids spin them in in the bay all day long . likewise , cervid and pig hunting involve to be arranged beforehand of time , but there is no formal scheme for that , so those are 2nd visit risky venture we ’ll have next time .
I ’d also have have it off to get onto a three-fold - sport ( road - going dirt bike ) during the trip . you may rent those fromMaui Moto Adventures .
And man , I can not emphasize enough how crippled it was to be drive a Camaro out there . Rent a lousy old Corolla or van from Maui Cruisers and you ’ll really correspond in .
We spend most of the trip in the water supply . Not many apparel were worn through any of it .
TL;DR : Hana scare off tourer with its want of encourage destination and reputation for inimical topical anaesthetic . But , meet a tripper by ear , be cool , and you ’ll have one of the most amazing experience of your life . This is the closest matter you ’ll find to paradise in the United States . Leave the Hawaiian shirt at home . Also , my girlfriend is really hot ; I met her on OKCupid .
AdventuresBeach
Daily Newsletter
Get the best technical school , scientific discipline , and culture news in your inbox day by day .
newsworthiness from the future tense , delivered to your present .
